With its white-washed houses and bright blue-hued doors, flower pots set on its crenelated walls, antiquated buildings and gothic churches in cobbled alleys, Obidos, at the risk of sounding cliched, is a magical fairy tale town. As one approaches the quaint town, just 85 km away from Portugal’s capital Lisbon, the cheerful local guide Juan gleefully announces, “It is my favourite and one of the prettiest places in Portugal and I am sure it is going to be yours too.” You could be initially sceptical of Juan’s almost sweeping statement, but it does not take very long to realise that he is indeed right!
Considered as one of the well persevered medieval villages in Europe, the town dates back to Roman times. Ruled by the Portugal kings since the 12th century, history has it that the town was gifted by King Dinis to his wife as a wedding present in the 13th century. Since then, the town became an exclusive property of the Portugal queens, a tradition that continued till the 19th century and one which gave it the moniker—‘the Town of Queens’. Dinis is also credited with renovating and rebuilding the present-day castle, Castelo de Óbidos. The well preserved, fortified walls of the castle Pousada, which has been serving as a hotel since 1950, gives the city its intrinsic character.
The entrance to the main town itself is through the ‘Porta da Vila’ or village door. The walled gates consist of two low rise walls which house an oratory dedicated to the Patroness of Obidos, Nossa Senhora da Piedade. The beautiful Azulejo (Portuguese tiles) here depict the scenes from the bible. Stroll carefully or else you might get lost in the majestic ramparts of the old town.
With historical structures standing tall from several centuries ago, the narrow streets seem like they are frozen in time. The 16th-century Igreja de Santa Maria (Church of Saint Mary) at the Santa Maria square is a beautiful church dedicated to the Lady of the Assumption. Its interiors, filled with intricate compositions of Portuguese tiles and exquisite paintings, adorn the ceiling and the nave. With elements from the Mannerist, Baroque and Renaissance styles of architecture, the church forms for an engaging visit. In St. Mary’s square, the 16th-century fountain, is another symbol of Obidos’ past. And as with most fountains of the yesteryears, this one too serves as a gathering where locals meet.
The 13th century Sao Pedro Church, with its Gothic architecture and striking baroque altarpiece is also the resting place of Josefa de Óbidos—the town’s most famous artist and a painter of repute.
While Obidos’ history and heritage are hard to miss, the town has not only preserved it but exhibits a spirit of creativity and innovation. Case in point is the 12th century Santiago church. Rebuilt in 1765 after the devastating 1755 earthquake, the church has been serving as a book store since 2012. The literary project (Óbidos Vila Literária), took shape in 2011 when several abandoned and unused public spaces were rehabilitated with the objective of transforming the town into a cultural and literary centre. Today, the city boasts of multiple thematic book stores housed in spaces as varied as wine cellars, organic markets, museums as well as hotels. In 2015, the initiative earned Óbidos the title of ‘Literary City’ by UNESCO.
But the town has more to offer than just thematic book stores. From shopping hand crafted ceramic artefacts, unique glassware and hand painted Portuguese tiles to savouring artisanal food and drinks, there is plenty to see. Don’t forget to raise a toast to Obidos house spirit Ginja de Óbidos or Ginjinha—a reddish concoction of sour cherries and brandy spiked with a dash of cinnamon or vanilla—the best way to end your sojourn of this alluring town.