In Cave One, Devaraja Lena—the Cave of the Divine King—is a massive 14-metre reclining Buddha, carved directly from the rock, with Ananda, his disciple, kneeling by his feet, and nearby a statue of Lord Vishnu, silent guardian of the cave, a sign of Sri Lanka’s unique Buddhist-Hindu layers of faith. Outside the cave, a Brahmi inscription confirms that monks have lived and worshipped here since the 1st century BCE.
In Maharaja Lena—the Great King’s Cave—sit over 50 statues of the Buddha in postures of teaching, meditation, blessing, or repose; a white dagoba and Kandyan-era murals show scenes of Buddha’s life and past lives and temples and trees and kings who once bowed low here. In a corner a stone pot catches water dripping from a crack in the ceiling, drop by drop, century after century, falls water with healing qualities.
Walking down the long curve past is a massive Golden Buddha statue built in 2001, modern and brash against the older rock. Beside it, the museum and monastery saffron-robed monks light lamps and chant morning prayers. It is a living temple, alive with faith and footfalls and incense smoke curling in the air.